There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Gain the crack in the south-facing side-wall from the right by a short traverse along the horizontal break. Once entered it gives classic jamming. A direct start is HVS 5c and a left-hand Finish is a good solid HVS 5a, combine them for a good trip. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1932-33.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 3 Star Stanage , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Bob's Cracking Winter Jamming Crack List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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lithos | 14 May, 2019 |
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βeta: cams 3.5, 4, 2 & 4.5, 3 | ||
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βeta: cams 3.5, 4, 2 & 4.5, 3 |
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Duz Walker | 21 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Did this with the direct start, which delivers you to the crux beefcaked. After that just sublime, bomber jams and enough for the feet. A steep juggy final fluorish too, always the best way to top out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did this with the direct start, which delivers you to the crux beefcaked. After that just sublime, bomber jams and enough for the feet. A steep juggy final fluorish too, always the best way to top out. |
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Fiend | 24 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: A joyous jamming experience that one can really romp up. Does exactly what it says on the tin but not too much of a battle. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A joyous jamming experience that one can really romp up. Does exactly what it says on the tin but not too much of a battle. |
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Duncan I | 15 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: A great introduction to more strenuous gritstone jamming. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great introduction to more strenuous gritstone jamming. |
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The old James turnbull | 8 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: really enjoyed this one, more than high neb buttress and other vs 4cs done on the same day. the traverse out was quite scary with on gear then when in the crack was brillent, i think it was 3 stars but was just a great day anyway. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: really enjoyed this one, more than high neb buttress and other vs 4cs done on the same day. the traverse out was quite scary with on gear then when in the crack was brillent, i think it was 3 stars but was just a great day anyway. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Curbar Edge)