Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The crack has an awkward initial section but it eases above. © Rockfax
FA. F.C.Aldous early 1910s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , WideBoyz Crack School , Stanage 'Difficults' , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Pre-WW1 Stanage , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richard | 19 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easiest to layback the start. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Easiest to layback the start. |
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| fenclimb | 28 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mate had his leg in a pot for this, said it helped cos he got a leg jam using the thickness of the cast to make it doable :p | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Mate had his leg in a pot for this, said it helped cos he got a leg jam using the thickness of the cast to make it doable :p |
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| Si dH | 9 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The start isnt that tricky, it was easy to use the slopy foothold on the left (around knee-height) and fist-jam the crack. Although my second couldnt jam with her small hands and had to do some osrt of dyno I think. Nice climb. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The start isnt that tricky, it was easy to use the slopy foothold on the left (around knee-height) and fist-jam the crack. Although my second couldnt jam with her small hands and had to do some osrt of dyno I think. Nice climb. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 20 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awkward is not the way to describe the start unless you have big boots and massive hands place a big friend high in the crack from the block on the left and then layback the right handside of the crack, to gain mortal sized jams. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Awkward is not the way to describe the start unless you have big boots and massive hands place a big friend high in the crack from the block on the left and then layback the right handside of the crack, to gain mortal sized jams. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant climbing (after a tricky start). Can be laced with gear, and makes a good first lead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pleasant climbing (after a tricky start). Can be laced with gear, and makes a good first lead. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Verandah Cracks Inside Route
Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)