Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
The central chimney is a bit of a struggle. Easy climbing leads to the constricted central portion. This is most easily climbed facing left (or maybe right?) before things ease off. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Chimney Tour , Stanage Solo , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , Easy Peak Chimneys , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Golden Age of Stanage Chimney’s , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Evelyn.h.h 7 May Show βeta
βeta: The struggling middle section should be graded as 4a in my opinion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The struggling middle section should be graded as 4a in my opinion.
TobyA 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I\'m sure this is much harder than Aries!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm sure this is much harder than Aries!
Simon Caldwell 15 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: No thrashing, thrutching or similar needed. A super route (whoever voted 'bag of' should take up needlework instead).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No thrashing, thrutching or similar needed. A super route (whoever voted 'bag of' should take up needlework instead).

Logged Ascents

532 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 84 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress

Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...