Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
An ancient tester. Pull onto the slab at a big pocket, head right to delicate moves to the flat ledge. Finish up the polished corner. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop et al. early 1910s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , The Alf Bridge Challenge , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave__horner 3 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Got my red cam stuck and couldn't get it out. if any one can please message, thanks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got my red cam stuck and couldn't get it out. if any one can please message, thanks
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: layback start? delicate padding up the rib and then mantle of a stonking hand jam.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: layback start? delicate padding up the rib and then mantle of a stonking hand jam.
cmsg 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, and I agree with this grade (HS 4c). Led a total beginner up it thinking "HS 4b? He'll get up it in the end." Poor choice for an introductory route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, and I agree with this grade (HS 4c). Led a total beginner up it thinking "HS 4b? He'll get up it in the end." Poor choice for an introductory route.
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A popular alternative start is 1m right. Better holds for a good layback, but still a 4c move or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A popular alternative start is 1m right. Better holds for a good layback, but still a 4c move or two.

Logged Ascents

2373 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 236
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 225
Votes cast 225
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pillar Ridge

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Laddow)

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