Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Devious but also excellent. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end then traverse left to finish as for the Direct variation. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Kelly 1915.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blod | 7 Dec, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you move onto the ledge to the right of the wide upper crack to belay the rope will be above the second when they travere left, avoiding the potential for a big swing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you move onto the ledge to the right of the wide upper crack to belay the rope will be above the second when they travere left, avoiding the potential for a big swing. |
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| C Witter | 2 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route and better than High Neb Buttress. Varied and exciting. Nothing very big needed for top crack (a big blue and a yellow camalot). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route and better than High Neb Buttress. Varied and exciting. Nothing very big needed for top crack (a big blue and a yellow camalot). |
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| Nico R | 16 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A friend #3 is big enough to protect the top crack. Without it there's also smaller gear on the left | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A friend #3 is big enough to protect the top crack. Without it there's also smaller gear on the left |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely. |
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| Richard | 19 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy. |
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| Si dH | 13 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant. |
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| gav p | 8 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high. |
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| Jamie B | 7 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade. |
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| gav p | 15 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4). |
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| bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb. |
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| Skyfall | 18 Mar, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Pothole Wall
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)