Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a worrying finale. Start up the short crack and make hard moves (especially so for the short) to easier ground. Lace the break, then teeter up the final slab by ever more committing moves. Side-runners lower the E-grade. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Memorable Climbs , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Original and best stanage extremes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TomG | 20 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The lower section seemed quite dangerous without side-runners in the thin crack to the right. It also felt quite contrived. The top is certainly safer but it is 'in the slightest thin'. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The lower section seemed quite dangerous without side-runners in the thin crack to the right. It also felt quite contrived. The top is certainly safer but it is 'in the slightest thin'. |
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| north country boy | 28 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately low in grade, with or without siderunner, top slab is easy and not in the slightest thin, nice route but very much low crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definately low in grade, with or without siderunner, top slab is easy and not in the slightest thin, nice route but very much low crux. |
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| Ropeboy | 31 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A route of contrats, an awkward start (harder if you're short) followed by a delicate bold slab to finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A route of contrats, an awkward start (harder if you're short) followed by a delicate bold slab to finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Archangel
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)