There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start at a blunt rib just left of Kelly's Crack and trend left to climb the slab. Good moves between cams in the breaks. © Rockfax
FA. Terry Bolger 1979.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Simas87 | 14 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Flake is not suspect anymore (Rockfax shows a suspect flake), it fell off! Getting off the ledge is a lot harder with small and delicate footholds. Definitely 4c now. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Flake is not suspect anymore (Rockfax shows a suspect flake), it fell off! Getting off the ledge is a lot harder with small and delicate footholds. Definitely 4c now. |
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Thestboss | 6 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Micro cams very useful for the crux move off the ledge. Without these the run out would be massive. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Micro cams very useful for the crux move off the ledge. Without these the run out would be massive. |
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Nomisr | 22 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Missing flake prob adds about 6\" to crux move, good stretch esp for the more diminutive ! 4c i reckon | ||
Show beta
βeta: Missing flake prob adds about 6" to crux move, good stretch esp for the more diminutive ! 4c i reckon |
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MITCHELL SQUIRES | 23 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rock plate broken off | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rock plate broken off |
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pedrosanpb | 1 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Described loose flake missing, broken off and in bits at the base of the climb. Makes it harder as there is a bigger reach from the ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Described loose flake missing, broken off and in bits at the base of the climb. Makes it harder as there is a bigger reach from the ledge. |
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Andrew Lodge | 24 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The flake has gone, it's in bits at the bottom of the crag. I suspect this makes it a bit harder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The flake has gone, it's in bits at the bottom of the crag. I suspect this makes it a bit harder. |
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kjules | 20 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite a nice climb, grade seemed about right, not too hard but not a lot of gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite a nice climb, grade seemed about right, not too hard but not a lot of gear. |
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RobRock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well that's what I did - got a 0 cam and a peanut in about head height whilst standing on the flake - there is protection opportunity at the last brake before the top, but doesn't seem worth it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Well that's what I did - got a 0 cam and a peanut in about head height whilst standing on the flake - there is protection opportunity at the last brake before the top, but doesn't seem worth it. |
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jackie | 19 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: No you didn't go off route, that's definitely a 4b and you can get a cam in the break. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No you didn't go off route, that's definitely a 4b and you can get a cam in the break. |
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Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did I go off route? Straight up from the left end of the flake - sustained 4c with no protection after the flake? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did I go off route? Straight up from the left end of the flake - sustained 4c with no protection after the flake? |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(High Tor)