Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then make a hard hand-traverse along the lowest break to reach the cracks a short distance below the jammed block. Finish steeply up the left-hand crack. Good solid hard work - not bad for 1929 - they gave it VD! © Rockfax
FA. F.Pigott, Morley Wood 1929.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neil Ireson | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a. |
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| Reds | 25 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g |
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| Chris Craggs | 25 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris |
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| jackie | 19 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 6 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Sunset Slab
Grade: HVS 4b ***
(Froggatt Edge)