Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
2 pitches.
A 2 pitch traverse of the obvious break. Start at the bottom of Leningrad.
1 - 6c. Hand traverse the break right either gaining, or eshewing the big ledge where the steep wall ends. Step down and around ribs before moving up to a belay ledge on The Staden Unconquerable, just beneath the impending flake.
2 - 6b. Step down and around the rib and hand traverse into the corner. Follow the well bolted break right, finishing up Restive Being, lowering off the strop and maillon.
Excellent climbing on P1. This is largely protected by bolts on the existing 'up routes'. We preplaced (and removed) a thread in Route 1, to protect getting to the first bolt. We also used a 3 medium wires and a Friend 2 on the traverse into the corner left of Invisible Limits, but everything else was in situ.
1 - 6c. Hand traverse the break right either gaining, or eshewing the big ledge where the steep wall ends. Step down and around ribs before moving up to a belay ledge on The Staden Unconquerable, just beneath the impending flake.
2 - 6b. Step down and around the rib and hand traverse into the corner. Follow the well bolted break right, finishing up Restive Being, lowering off the strop and maillon.
Excellent climbing on P1. This is largely protected by bolts on the existing 'up routes'. We preplaced (and removed) a thread in Route 1, to protect getting to the first bolt. We also used a 3 medium wires and a Friend 2 on the traverse into the corner left of Invisible Limits, but everything else was in situ.
Neil McAdie, Neil Foster (A/L), Chris Plant 12/Aug/2022.
Ticklists
Neil's New Routes , Peak Traverses
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Route of Interest
Private Prosecution
Grade: 6c ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)