Rockfax Description
This continuation of the Dibona route is a very enjoyable climb in its own right. The route follows a logical line up a large crack and chimney system that runs diagonally through the face.
Start on the upper wall to the right of the large boulder on the left side of a low buttress.
1) III, 40m. Climb the left wall of the buttress from left to right, then move back left and traverse a ledge left, belaying below a yellow crack.
2) I, 40m. Ignore the crack and continue left along the ledge.
3) IV, 40m. Climb a black crack right, cross a short ledge and climb the subsequent crack direct to belay in the base of the prominent chimney.
4) IV, 50m. Climb the chimney. Belay just beyond a chockstone.
5) IV+, 25m. Continue in the chimney passing numerous jammed blocks and characteristic 'windows' to belay below a crack.
6) IV+, 40m. Climb the crack to a ledge, then gain the upper chimney. Follow this right.
7) IV-, 25m. Continue in the same line, using a crack at the back of the chimney then exit right onto a good ledge.
8) IV-, 25m. Cross back left below a notch, then climb a crack direct to a good ledge. © Rockfax
FA. Dibona, Mayer, Rizzi 1910 15/Jun/1910.
Dolomites easy multipitch , Dollies and Follies
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Grade: IV+ ***
(Sasso delle Nove (Sass de les Nu))