No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Caff 19/Sep/2021.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tintinandpip | 11 May |
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βeta: Superb, great route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb, great route. |
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Si Witcher | 25 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: 6 drilled/glued anchors on Easel-EE, and then 2 hammered pegs and 1 more drilled/glued bolt on the Painted Groove finish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 6 drilled/glued anchors on Easel-EE, and then 2 hammered pegs and 1 more drilled/glued bolt on the Painted Groove finish. |
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johnyo | 26 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: This is fully pegbolted. Top out needs some care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is fully pegbolted. Top out needs some care. |
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)