The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - IMPORTANT NEW UPDATE: The whole crag restriction is back in force (5pm 9th May). After lifting the restriction yesterday, the Peregrines were unfortunately observed to be significantly disturbed by the presence of climbers even well away from the restricted area. Thus Natural England have changed the signs on site and the whole crag is likely to remain restricted for the rest of the breeding season.
Rockfax Description
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space provides the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild. © Rockfax
FA. John Loy, D Mellor (1 pt. of aid) 1960. FFA. (Direct Finish) Chris Jackson 1976.
The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MatthewK | 29 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-) | ||
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βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-) |
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Al Evans | 15 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time. |
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roger whetton | 22 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!) |
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Mick B | 5 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b. | ||
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βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)