The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - IMPORTANT NEW UPDATE: The whole crag restriction is back in force (5pm 9th May). After lifting the restriction yesterday, the Peregrines were unfortunately observed to be significantly disturbed by the presence of climbers even well away from the restricted area. Thus Natural England have changed the signs on site and the whole crag is likely to remain restricted for the rest of the breeding season.
Rockfax Description
A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below an evil-looking hanging flake.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb a groove, then move right past the wedged flake with care. Continue awkwardly up the thin crack until tricky moves right gain the belay.
2) 5b, 24m. Climb the crack above the stance to steeper rock, then pull through the bulges to join the wide crack that forms the final section of the upper pitch of Mealystopheles. Steep. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock (1 pt of aid pitch 2) 1964.
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Different Steve | 17 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-place gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-place gear. |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(Chee Dale Upper)