The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - IMPORTANT NEW UPDATE: The whole crag restriction is back in force (5pm 9th May). After lifting the restriction yesterday, the Peregrines were unfortunately observed to be significantly disturbed by the presence of climbers even well away from the restricted area. Thus Natural England have changed the signs on site and the whole crag is likely to remain restricted for the rest of the breeding season.
Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line, then continue to a grassy landing on a stance under a bulge. Alternatively, start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. This is very scruffy but it avoids that first move bringing the route down to VS 4c.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa. © Rockfax
FA. D Johnson, D Mellor 1960.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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DrGav | 19 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Popular)