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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic. Three contrasting pitches give a wonderful tour of the crag. Start below a left-facing slim corner.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the slim corner to a ledge.
2) 4c, 26m. Move out rightwards to below the diagonal break and follow it past a corner/groove to a ledge and belay.
3) 5a, 23m. Move back left and then gain the right rib of the long corner/groove. Climb up rightwards past an overlap, then slightly leftwards across a corner to easier ground that gains the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Offering 3 contrasting pitches and a good view of the extreme routes.

Ticklists

Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Langdale 3 Star HVS Round - Climb them all in a single day , UK Holiday Plans , Extreme Girdle , Lakes HVS , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Bold Tradprenticeship , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Cumbria for the Recreational User

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User Date Notes
C Witter 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bold reputation of p.3 is undeserved - plentiful gear - mostly bomber medium nuts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bold reputation of p.3 is undeserved - plentiful gear - mostly bomber medium nuts.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 163
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 165
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Illusion

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Falcon Crag)

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