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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.
A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag. 2018
2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).
The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!
Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing that is sustained and pumpy but on generally good holds. Start under the long low overhang.
1) 4c, 35m. Traverse left to below a groove at the left end of the low overhang. Climb the wall left of the groove, then transfer across it to the right wall and follow it to a terrace.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above via a crack to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent climbing that is sustained and pumpy but on generally good holds. Start under the right end of the the long low overhang.
1) 4c, 38m. Traverse left to above a pinnacle at the left end of the low overhang. Proceed straight up for roughly 2 metres then traverse to almost back above your belayer and proceed straight up on lighter sandy coloured rock with small jugs.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above via a crack to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in).
Ticklists
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Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 24 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. |
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| Buckers360 | 30 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around |
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| neuromancer | 21 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. |
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| Lakesben | 20 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led P2 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led P2 |
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| DavidR | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. |
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| Rog Wilko | 4 Sep, 2010 |
Show βeta
βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Raven Crag (Langdale)
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The Borrowdale Stare
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Hind Crag)