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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

"Valley Routes" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mike-W-99 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great find. Felt more like vs5a mind you.
Show beta
βeta: Great find. Felt more like vs5a mind you.
C Witter 19 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good job Martin and Paul. Excellent and varied route - three star, (mostly) well protected HVS 5a in my book. A great find! A far better route than Prometheus and at least as good as Holly Tree Direct. Apart from the stuff right of the groove, the rock quality seemed impeccable.
Show beta
βeta: Good job Martin and Paul. Excellent and varied route - three star, (mostly) well protected HVS 5a in my book. A great find! A far better route than Prometheus and at least as good as Holly Tree Direct. Apart from the stuff right of the groove, the rock quality seemed impeccable.
charliesdad 20 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, well protected and with loads of great moves. N.B. There is some friable rock; we pulled a cricket-ball sized piece off the top section.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, well protected and with loads of great moves. N.B. There is some friable rock; we pulled a cricket-ball sized piece off the top section.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kipling Groove

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gimmer Crag)

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