The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.
A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag. 2018
2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).
The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!
Rockfax Description
One of Langdale's finest VSs that features two testing crack pitches and an airy top pitch. Start at the base of the long rib.
1) 4b, 17m. Move up easily to a wide crack (large cam for protection) and move up past it to a ledge and belays.
2) 4c, 20m. Take the thin crack and bulge above to a rib that leads to a ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 30m. Move 6m right along the ledge until at a thin crack. Move up the crack (tricky to start) then left, passing under a block/pinnacle to its left side. Traverse left for 8m on positive holds to a corner and cross it to easier ground. © Rockfax
Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3 star VS round - Climb them all in a single day (2013 Guide) , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Langdale *** VS Challenge (1999 guide) , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , Dan’s Delights , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cumbria for the Recreational User
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 28 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Classy VS 4c, with varied and well-protected climbing: an offwidth, a more technical wall and a "questy" top pitch. Fair at the grade and good rock and gear throughout, though top pitch prone to a bit of wet grass in places and a few easily avoided loose bits of rock lying around. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Classy VS 4c, with varied and well-protected climbing: an offwidth, a more technical wall and a "questy" top pitch. Fair at the grade and good rock and gear throughout, though top pitch prone to a bit of wet grass in places and a few easily avoided loose bits of rock lying around. |
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charlesisbozo | 10 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Fixed nut on 2nd pitch no longer there thanks to an enthusiastic second. | ||
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βeta: Fixed nut on 2nd pitch no longer there thanks to an enthusiastic second. |
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Joel Jameson | 27 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Nut fixed on 2nd pitch mid crack just before bold move onto ledge.. 26th Aug 22. Enjoy...! | ||
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βeta: Nut fixed on 2nd pitch mid crack just before bold move onto ledge.. 26th Aug 22. Enjoy...! |
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George Frisby | 3 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Initial crack takes sizes 3 and 4 (blue and large silver) if wondering what cams to bring up for it. | ||
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βeta: Initial crack takes sizes 3 and 4 (blue and large silver) if wondering what cams to bring up for it. |
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BenKent | 5 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route if you enjoy climbing on marble worktops | ||
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βeta: Great route if you enjoy climbing on marble worktops |
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thetradlad | 16 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Led pitch 1a, 2 and 3b! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led pitch 1a, 2 and 3b! |
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olddirtydoggy | 22 May, 2019 |
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βeta: P2 is killer but the rest is ok. | ||
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βeta: P2 is killer but the rest is ok. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Esk Buttress (Dow Crag))