Rockfax Description
E1. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. A full rack is required, and the route can be done in three huge pitches if required.1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay.2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay.3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay.4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove.5) 6a, 50m. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4 ). © Rockfax
FA. H.Garc?a Gallego 1980.
Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
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shed_hed | 3 Jan |
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βeta: Better to ab off down from the top of the route to the right (looking in) to the top of P3, then straight down to another small ledge with ab point to the route on the right, and from there to the ground. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Better to ab off down from the top of the route to the right (looking in) to the top of P3, then straight down to another small ledge with ab point to the route on the right, and from there to the ground. |
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C Witter | 14 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: NB: Ignore comments about a bolt on the crux; they are incorrect. There is a peg once you are already fully involved with the crux, and dubious tat before. The only bolts on the route are for belays; there are sporadic pegs of varying quality. A reasonably full rack is needed, though nothing particularly unusual and no micro nuts or micro cams needed. | ||
Show beta
βeta: NB: Ignore comments about a bolt on the crux; they are incorrect. There is a peg once you are already fully involved with the crux, and dubious tat before. The only bolts on the route are for belays; there are sporadic pegs of varying quality. A reasonably full rack is needed, though nothing particularly unusual and no micro nuts or micro cams needed. |
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Chris the Tall | 22 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you | ||
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you |
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Ramon Marin | 1 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Castellets)