350m, 11 pitches.
5b, 4a, 4c, 4b, 5b, 6a+, 5a, 3, 4a, 4a, 4b
A Part of the famous Paklenica Trilogy (Velebitaški-Klin-Mosoraški). It is intended and ornamented with beautiful details and it will leave every climber breathless.
A Part of the famous Paklenica Trilogy (Velebitaški-Klin-Mosoraški). It is intended and ornamented with beautiful details and it will leave every climber breathless.
D.Ribarovic, N.Jakic, M.Mlinac.
Ticklists
Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , Paklenica 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| boreal187 | 8 May |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is definitely more in the 6s range than 5b. Fixed protection in general quite sparse. We carried on until P4, as it was getting late we decided to bail and used an abseil point right below what's shown in the diagram as the second ab station from the bottom. Ended up dangling in mid air 2 metres away from the first pitch station of Gaz with just a few metres left on our 70s ropes. Thankfully I managed to swing for dear life and grab some vegetation and find my way onto the ledge to then finish the abseil. Do NOT use the second ab station indicated on the book in case of a bail. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is definitely more in the 6s range than 5b. Fixed protection in general quite sparse. We carried on until P4, as it was getting late we decided to bail and used an abseil point right below what's shown in the diagram as the second ab station from the bottom. Ended up dangling in mid air 2 metres away from the first pitch station of Gaz with just a few metres left on our 70s ropes. Thankfully I managed to swing for dear life and grab some vegetation and find my way onto the ledge to then finish the abseil. Do NOT use the second ab station indicated on the book in case of a bail. |
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| krystian.kostecki | 10 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Started late, ended in the dark, so we were unsure about the descent (to the left - front facing), the right descent option isn't any easier, cause we have already tested it doing other routes on Anica. It is good to have some good overview of descents options if you plan to finish late :). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Started late, ended in the dark, so we were unsure about the descent (to the left - front facing), the right descent option isn't any easier, cause we have already tested it doing other routes on Anica. It is good to have some good overview of descents options if you plan to finish late :). |
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Route of Interest
Ljubljanski
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Paklenica Gorge)