This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
A better route than its left-hand neighbour. Start below a slim right-facing corner which is just above the right-hand of two holes above the juggy traverse line. Climb the corner to the break. Continue straight up the wall above, past some breaks and a crystal pocket, to the roof. Pull over then step right to gain a flake. Climb the flake for 5m then swing left to a rest. Continue up a small groove above to finish. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 20/Feb/1987.
101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
JulesV | 21 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: As others have said, follow the description not the topo. The topo is wrong in both the 2012 CC guide and the new select guide, which show it going up a corner below a roof at the top. The described route, including flake which there is a pic of Ged Desforges on in the 2012 guide, is actually on the line shown as Seaside Salamander in that guide. The description is a bit misleading too as it says to \"follow the flake rightwards for 5m\". Actually the flake goes more or less straight up, trending only slightly right. Really great line when you find it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As others have said, follow the description not the topo. The topo is wrong in both the 2012 CC guide and the new select guide, which show it going up a corner below a roof at the top. The described route, including flake which there is a pic of Ged Desforges on in the 2012 guide, is actually on the line shown as Seaside Salamander in that guide. The description is a bit misleading too as it says to "follow the flake rightwards for 5m". Actually the flake goes more or less straight up, trending only slightly right. Really great line when you find it! |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gun Cliff)