Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most popular 8a routes. Sustained climbing with a draining move to the belay. You only get the full tick if you grab the belay without a quick-draw in place! © Rockfax
FA. Dave Kenyon 1986.
THE classic old skool 8a's , World Graded List , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Mike and Connors 2 year plan , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Northern Limestone for Catalans , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Short King's Queen Lines , Sportland , Another lifelist? , Sport life
User | Date | Notes | ||
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meggies | 9 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else! |
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GDes | 23 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it. |
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Andy Farnell | 18 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over. |
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John Cooke | 5 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a. | ||
Show beta
βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a. |
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teddy | 25 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a. |
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Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)