Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
A technical outing. The first bolted line on the far left of the better rock. Take care with some dodgy blocks up high. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Ryan 1992. Originally called 'Skip to my Loo', which may seem a more appropriate name to many..
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ian Dunn | 3 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Completely re-bolted with bolts in line with the route and extended by another 15 metres Over Dunn 7a Spring 2023 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Completely re-bolted with bolts in line with the route and extended by another 15 metres Over Dunn 7a Spring 2023 |
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Fakey Rocks | 4 May, 2022 |
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βeta: 6c? If someone capable of 7b+ Rp's couldn't onsight this then i doubt its 6c. Probably 6c until you get to the finish but that finish possibly makes it a 7a or fairly hard 6c+. (...?) Bit scary with the manky top bolt too. Not sure how to finish it...clip from the undercut? or power through to a finishing jug up left of the chain, clipping should then be less of a panic! | ||
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βeta: 6c? If someone capable of 7b+ Rp's couldn't onsight this then i doubt its 6c. Probably 6c until you get to the finish but that finish possibly makes it a 7a or fairly hard 6c+. (...?) Bit scary with the manky top bolt too. Not sure how to finish it...clip from the undercut? or power through to a finishing jug up left of the chain, clipping should then be less of a panic! |
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Daimon - Rockfax | 16 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: Not the best route in the world. But nice to have a 6c Around the place. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not the best route in the world. But nice to have a 6c Around the place. |
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Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Scar)