Restricted Access
Calderdale Council own and manage Heptonstall Quarry and are very happy to allow access for climbing providing that only belay stakes are used as anchors above the crag (not fence posts).
It's also worth highlighting that as with any piece of in situ equipment, all belay stakes should be checked before use to ensure they are solid. If you are concerned about the condition of any of the stakes pease contact access@thebmc.co.uk with full details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
7 May 2024: two jackdaw nests reported in Forked Lightning Crack, please avoid this and nearby routes.
Rockfax Description
20m. One of the best routes in the quarry, steep and pumpy but with good runners to catch you if/when you finally run out of steam. Follow the crack to the break then step right and make long moves to reach the continuation. Sprint up the flake to a breather in the easy chimney before topping out. A solid E1. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven , 50 cracks to Squamish , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven. , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Hardest E1s on grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Foster | 7 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained and brilliant. All the tough bits are on the first half, bulging as it is. Loads of gear with plenty of wires and small cams. Once at the base of the layback flake drop yer left knee for a wee breather, bung in another cam and off ya pop to the top. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Sustained and brilliant. All the tough bits are on the first half, bulging as it is. Loads of gear with plenty of wires and small cams. Once at the base of the layback flake drop yer left knee for a wee breather, bung in another cam and off ya pop to the top. |
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| ste | 7 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: not technical but very pumpy and long. its like two normal steep e1's stacked on top of each other with no rest in between. i was happily leading e2/3 when i fell off this first. if you do it and still feel fresh head rightwards beyond yellow wall to find heatwave (e2). | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: not technical but very pumpy and long. its like two normal steep e1's stacked on top of each other with no rest in between. i was happily leading e2/3 when i fell off this first. if you do it and still feel fresh head rightwards beyond yellow wall to find heatwave (e2). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Heptonstall Quarry
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Phantoms Cove
Grade: E1 ***
(Shibden Glen)