Calderdale Council own and manage Heptonstall Quarry and are very happy to allow access for climbing providing that only belay stakes are used as anchors above the crag (not fence posts).
It's also worth highlighting that as with any piece of in situ equipment, all belay stakes should be checked before use to ensure they are solid. If you are concerned about the condition of any of the stakes pease contact access@thebmc.co.uk with full details.
Reason: Nesting Birds
7 May 2024: two jackdaw nests reported in Forked Lightning Crack, please avoid this and nearby routes.
Rockfax Description
26m. Climb the ledgy groove left of the arete to reach the end of a ramp running across the face below the steeper rock. Follow this - scary and delicate - until the final couple of moves of Demerara lead into the easy upper chimney. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jl100 | 2 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Awesomely good gear for a P2. But very bad rope drag if you place it. Its probably not got a move harder than 4C but the original grade of HVS is probably accurate although a soft one. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Awesomely good gear for a P2. But very bad rope drag if you place it. Its probably not got a move harder than 4C but the original grade of HVS is probably accurate although a soft one. |
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Dave Foster | 7 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: Didn't get along with this one. Bit tricky on the traverse if you're tall, especially on the last bit. Usually plenty of wires left in situ where the second obviously didn't fancy hanging around too long. Nuff said. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Didn't get along with this one. Bit tricky on the traverse if you're tall, especially on the last bit. Usually plenty of wires left in situ where the second obviously didn't fancy hanging around too long. Nuff said. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mytholm Steep Quarry)