Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
An overlooked Pat Littlejohn classic worth seeking out. Power up the steep crack in the right wall to a niche. From the niche head diagonally left, avoiding the arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Fierce, exposed climbing. A determined approach will work wonders at the start. Start at a steep crack system in the right wall of the gully. Climb the crack past a niche, then take a diagonal line leftwards, avoiding the arête, to finish just left of the arête.
Pat Littlejohn 1970.
Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)