The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. J.Moyle, P.Robertson 11/Jun/2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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The Pylon King | 17 Feb |
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βeta: It hasnt fallen down. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It hasnt fallen down. |
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Dunthemall | 17 Feb |
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βeta: Fallen Down | ||
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βeta: Fallen Down |
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norris.dan | 19 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)