The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Good slab climbing but run-out. Begin just right of the runnels of Minute Waltz. Move up into a shallow niche and then progress up the slab above, slightly rightwards, to a ledge. From its left end make some committing moves to a runnel up on the left and finish up it and the grassy slab above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and insecure in places: high in the grade. Start at the lowest point of the right-hand slab of the glacis. Climb straight up past the blast pocket and trend slightly right up the slab above (thin) to reach a ledge and sapling. From the left end of the ledge, make bold moves up and left to gain a shallow runnel, which is followed to the top of the slab. Go up grassy ledges to a lower-off.
FA. R.A.Broomhead, J.Stanbury 01/Jun/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
badgerjockey | 27 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Placed 12 runners on this. Mostly small brass but also small cams and small-medium offsets. Nearly all of it was very good. Not nearly as run out as it seems. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Placed 12 runners on this. Mostly small brass but also small cams and small-medium offsets. Nearly all of it was very good. Not nearly as run out as it seems. |
||||
jafferton91 | 9 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A friend had a ground fall on this after all his gear ripped causing significant injuries a couple of years ago. I just want to highlight that gear is not straightforward on this climb! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A friend had a ground fall on this after all his gear ripped causing significant injuries a couple of years ago. I just want to highlight that gear is not straightforward on this climb! |
||||
Steve Woollard | 28 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tree has gone, top now feels really bold! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tree has gone, top now feels really bold! |
||||
Labergorce | 2 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not overly bold at top got micro and #1 in above the ledge. thought crux was getting to the ledge as harder and pretty run out there | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not overly bold at top got micro and #1 in above the ledge. thought crux was getting to the ledge as harder and pretty run out there |
||||
beardy mike | 1 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The small sapling on the ledge is now gone. Better holds have been unearthed from beneath the grass to aid now the trees gone and a good nut slot is easy to find and place at the left extremity of the ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The small sapling on the ledge is now gone. Better holds have been unearthed from beneath the grass to aid now the trees gone and a good nut slot is easy to find and place at the left extremity of the ledge. |
||||
Steve Woollard | 22 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tree looking pretty dead | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tree looking pretty dead |
||||
iantoday | 25 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good small gear all the way up to the tree on the ledge, bold after that | ||
Show beta
βeta: Good small gear all the way up to the tree on the ledge, bold after that |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)