The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Brilliant and unlikely climbing which is almost a sport route. Climb straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree. Harder moves lead up to a flake. Pull up then make a foot-scrabbling fingery move rightwards up positive pockets to better holds. Move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on a tree above. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s.
Ultimate E1 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
OllyD | 5 May |
Show βeta
βeta: The abb off the now dead yew tree is very unsafe, and there is not an obvious alternative (without leaving gear behind). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The abb off the now dead yew tree is very unsafe, and there is not an obvious alternative (without leaving gear behind). |
||||
Ignas Va | 23 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks. |
||||
SteveJC94 | 11 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day. |
||||
SP | 20 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving. |
||||
orangesmartie61 | 22 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux. |
||||
Alan James - Rockfax | 25 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid. |
||||
Chris the Tall | 16 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps. |
||||
John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)