Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A brilliant route with a bit of everything and best enjoyed as one mega 50m pitch. Start at the base of the gully, as for Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate. Either solo or rope climb the first pitch of CC/ME directly up the polished gully/chimney to a belay directly below the right-hand side of the arete. The finger-crack up the short corner is desperate, so come in from the right and move left to the arete and climb this via a steep crack to a sloping ledge. A short groove leads up to another ledge (possible belay to reduce rope drag). Struggle up the wide crack above then move right to V-notch in the arete. A precarious move over this leads to easier climbing up the arete. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 14 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: A fantastic route, but tough for the grade. The lower fingercrack/corner is surely 5c and tough to onsight. Offwidth is also perplexing! Brilliant climbing throughout and very sustained. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route, but tough for the grade. The lower fingercrack/corner is surely 5c and tough to onsight. Offwidth is also perplexing! Brilliant climbing throughout and very sustained. |
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JManfredi | 1 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The current Rockfax description says to skip the finger crack at the start. Though it is avoidable, and undoubtedly harder than the rest of the route (The moves are pushing 5C), I thought it was some of the best climbing. It would be a shame to miss it out IMO! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The current Rockfax description says to skip the finger crack at the start. Though it is avoidable, and undoubtedly harder than the rest of the route (The moves are pushing 5C), I thought it was some of the best climbing. It would be a shame to miss it out IMO! |
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eb202 | 3 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are currently Jackdaws nesting in the flake. Backed off and had to leave a wire and quickdraw behind. Will pay for postage for their return, please PM me. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There are currently Jackdaws nesting in the flake. Backed off and had to leave a wire and quickdraw behind. Will pay for postage for their return, please PM me. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)