Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
The link of pitch 1 of Zukator and pitch 2 of Grasper is arguably even better then the original but worth E3.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 15m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lankcroft | 1 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The approach was very overgrown - we beat a path through the dead brambles, but it took about an hour from the car to the base! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The approach was very overgrown - we beat a path through the dead brambles, but it took about an hour from the car to the base! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Left Wall
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)