Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The steep gully is better than it appears, and stays dry in light rain. Start just to the right of The Fang below the deep corner.
1) 5a, 35m. Climb the burly chimney and pull around the overhang on its right. Continue over more bulges to a tree belay on the right. Most people abseil off at this point, as there is loose rock on the next pitch.
2) 4b, 12m. The short arete leads past some loose rock to another tree belay just below the top. Either scramble up the gully or abseil off this. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A climb not to be underestimated. The first pitch is a little cheeky in places and although the pro is good its not always where you want it. Second pitch is very short and easy. Overall an interesting and rewarding clmb!
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , BSR multipitch routes , N Wales VS longlist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Sardien | 6 Mar |
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βeta: Very likely my wedding ring slipped out of my pocket here today :( If anyone finds a plain titanium band at the bottom of the route or thereabouts please get in touch! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very likely my wedding ring slipped out of my pocket here today :( If anyone finds a plain titanium band at the bottom of the route or thereabouts please get in touch! |
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| emcawte | 20 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Pitch 1 only | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 1 only |
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| 09packhamg | 15 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: very loose rock after belay tree | βeta? | |
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βeta: very loose rock after belay tree |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Dives / Sabre Cut
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)