Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some big blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge, gain a right-trending ramp (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © Rockfax
H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955.
Ticklists
Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , The V.S.+ Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Routes for MCI
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Merlin Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))