Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Much of the original route Shadrach is no more, with both the chimney and pinnacle now a lot nearer the road. This combination is a good way to reach the old top pitch.
1) 5a 32m. Climb up left over ledges to a scoop and groove to the right of Grim Wall. Climb the groove on the right over a steepening to a small ledge on the right above a roof. Move up again to a flake (this is now Shadrach) and continue up to a ledge below a short blank wall and belay.
2) 5a, 18m. Gain the groove above the rock scar is by moving up and right into it. The climbing is pretty bold and not the VS it used to be. Once in the groove, follow it to the top, moving to the right to gain the top of the crag. © Rockfax
FA. A.Moulam, G.Piggott, D.Thomas 13.5.1951 13/May/1951.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)