Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A popular climb with a great second pitch. Start below the rock scar of what was Shadrach.
1) 4c, 32m. Climb up left over ledges to a scoop and groove to the right of Grim Wall. Climb the groove on the right over a steepening to a small ledge on the right. Move up again to a flake then step down left. Move up and then traverse left again to a corner. Head up this briefly to a ledge on the left.
2) 5a, 25m. Go up and slightly left past blocks to a small roof. Step left and move left round the roof to a small ledge on the left - gear further left once on the ledge. Now move back right to a flat ledge and get stood on this before heading up and right for the peg. Either make hard moves up right to the end of a small ledge, or head up from the peg to a ledge and then step across to the ledge on the right. Move right along the ledge and head up near its end to finish.
2a) The Rattlesnake Finish, E2 5c - Make technical moves direct on the headwall. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21' , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , Wales Trip - 2022 , North Wales To Do List , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tim Francis | 29 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Quite overgrown in places? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite overgrown in places? |
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| rickeden | 1 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Lead the first pitch, as I thought I was on the start of Grim Wall. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead the first pitch, as I thought I was on the start of Grim Wall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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The Fang
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))