Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
Only slightly easier than its direct neighbour and not as good.
1) 4c, 20m. As for Merlin Direct.
2) 5a, 30m. Follow Merlin Direct to the move rightwards out of the groove onto the rib. Head up and traverse rightwards below the steepening and move round into a corner. Belay on a tree below a final steep corner.
3) 4a, 5m. Battle up the final corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The main flake of p2 has fallen down as of November 2023.

It's has been reclimbed but is a significantly bolder proposition. From the p1 belay climb up the slab as before then climb the steep right hand wall boldly on good holds. HVS 4c?

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , North Wales Summer 21' , Welsh Roadtrip , Welsh Roadtrip , N Wales VS longlist

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pinky

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns))

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