Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A fine groove climb with technical climbing and superb positions. Start below the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the buttress.
1) 5a, 15m. Make a tricky move to gain the groove and climb it to where you can escape left below the top roof onto the top of a sloping ramp and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Move left then back right and pull through the roof above into a fine groove. Bridge up this, moving right onto a rib then back left. Continue up the groove moving left around a roof onto easy ground. Tree belay above. Abseil off. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , AMC Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21'
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Philip.taylor112 | 1 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch at the start of the bridging we had to abandon and anchor set up with 3 nuts, a sling, 2 screw gates and 1 QD. If you find these please can you be brilliant and return them to Phil Taylor Philip.taylor112@gmail.com or Joeruckus@gmail.com. Happy to pay for postage and packaging Thanks | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch at the start of the bridging we had to abandon and anchor set up with 3 nuts, a sling, 2 screw gates and 1 QD. If you find these please can you be brilliant and return them to Phil Taylor Philip.taylor112@gmail.com or Joeruckus@gmail.com. Happy to pay for postage and packaging Thanks |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Falcon
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))