Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The right-hand Slip is even more technical.
1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the first groove below the roof to a ledge at the base of the beautiful upper groove. Climb this with sustained interest to a ledge. Two methods - the blank groove direct, or by moving onto the arete.
2) 4b, 12m. Easier climbing leads up the arete and rough ground to a tree belay. Abseil off. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Tremadog 2018/2019 , Jonesy's leg day ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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benkelsey | 28 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Accident waiting to happen if abbing into choss valley - better to top out and walk off | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Accident waiting to happen if abbing into choss valley - better to top out and walk off |
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shaunhumphreys | 27 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: We abseiled off the ab tat to save time. Takes you straight through the recent huge rockfall, super unstable still. Would not recommend! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We abseiled off the ab tat to save time. Takes you straight through the recent huge rockfall, super unstable still. Would not recommend! |
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Benjaminwill | 8 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Save a green cam and some microwires for the belay as what's left of the pegs are in very poor condition. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Save a green cam and some microwires for the belay as what's left of the pegs are in very poor condition. |
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kylelewin | 31 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: DNF Had to bail CRAG SWAG - Left 2 nuts and maillons in the roof, tough tags on one of the nuts if anyone finds it and reads this. Fine up the first groove, arranged gear and moved out across the traverse (stiff but easier than it looks). stood up on the ledge at the base of the second groove and realised that this was the crux. Even if I had of set off up the 2nd groove, my ropes were run awkwardly into the roof (causing drag) and I was light on gear by this point. After climbing back and forth across the traverse to attempt to regain some of my rack we eventually bailed. One to come back for, next time I would climb the 1st groove on one rope and then extend the gear under the roof even more. then once on the 2nd groove I would start on the second rope and protect it with smaller nuts. in theory of course... I'd still have to climb a thin 5c groove lol. Quality route but above my paygrade at the moment. | ||
Show beta
βeta: DNF Had to bail CRAG SWAG - Left 2 nuts and maillons in the roof, tough tags on one of the nuts if anyone finds it and reads this. Fine up the first groove, arranged gear and moved out across the traverse (stiff but easier than it looks). stood up on the ledge at the base of the second groove and realised that this was the crux. Even if I had of set off up the 2nd groove, my ropes were run awkwardly into the roof (causing drag) and I was light on gear by this point. After climbing back and forth across the traverse to attempt to regain some of my rack we eventually bailed. One to come back for, next time I would climb the 1st groove on one rope and then extend the gear under the roof even more. then once on the 2nd groove I would start on the second rope and protect it with smaller nuts. in theory of course... I'd still have to climb a thin 5c groove lol. Quality route but above my paygrade at the moment. |
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Iain Weymouth | 26 Feb, 2021 |
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βeta: Dunc forgot rock boots so seconded in trainers... respect! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Dunc forgot rock boots so seconded in trainers... respect! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)