Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A pleasant combination of pitches. About 20m left of the start of Yogi is another slab that faces southwest. Go up the path to the terrace and start just left of the large tree at the base.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab from the toe of the buttress to gain twin cracks. Ascend these past small wires to an easing. Step right into the wide crack and either belay on the tree, or at a ledge just above.
2) 4b, 20m. Head up the crack and then take the bold slab on the left until you can step right onto a heather terrace. Move right to below a steep crack and follow this up and slightly left before heading back right towards the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A pleasant route that is low in the grade. About 20m left of the start of Yogi is another slab that faces southwest. Head up the path to the terrace and start just left of the large tree at the base.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab from the toe of the buttress to gain twin cracks. Ascend these past small wires to an easing. Step right into the wide crack and climb to either belay on the tree, or at a ledge just above.
2) 4b, 20m. Head up the crack and then take the bold slab on the left until you can step right onto a heather terrace. Move right to below a steep crack and follow this up and slightly left before heading back right towards the top.
Ticklists
Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , BSR multipitch routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Butty | 20 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: No way VS but pleasant enough, Gear was fine a touch wet on P1.Did in 1 pitch | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No way VS but pleasant enough, Gear was fine a touch wet on P1.Did in 1 pitch |
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| Felix Ottey | 13 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Never VS climbed in the wet | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Never VS climbed in the wet |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))