Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb that builds to a stunning and very exposed crack pitch on the headwall.
1) 5a, 15m. As for Vector.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb up, then pull left and tackle a short steep groove left of a jutting nose. Urgent moves through this lead with relief to a small ledge and a groove shared with Nimbus. Follow this to the Vector cave stance.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line to a belay below the headwall.
4) 6a, 15m. Head up a crack and step left into a small groove. Move up this to gain the crack in the headwall. Charge up this and make a powerful move out left to improving holds leading leftwards to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The exposed top pitch up the middle of the headwall is sustained and out there but well protected and not too hard technically if you don't let the exposure get to you. (Using 150ft ropes & careful rope work it is possible to do the first 3 pitches as 1 with very little drag)
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Caelan visits , Crackageddon , Definitive *** Tremadog , 30 For My 30s , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Big Ron routes for mortals , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Preparation for the Resurrection , Year 2 ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 11 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two green cams handy for the crux headwall. First three pitches are fine in one on 50m ropes but take lots of runners! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Two green cams handy for the crux headwall. First three pitches are fine in one on 50m ropes but take lots of runners! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Fear of Infection
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn Mawr Cwmglas)