Rockfax Description
A magnificent bold wall climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.
1) 4c, 10m. As for Curving Crack to the pedestal belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Move out right passing a narrow corner, then head up via a hard move to a small quartz ledge. Move up and left gaining a small groove and follow it for 13m past an old peg. Move right and head up with difficulty to an overlap and more ageing ironmongery. Go right to gain better holds and a short groove leading to a large flake. Traditionally the belay is here, but continuing up left onto the arete makes for a better pitch and a more comfortable belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Finish easily up the arete as for Curving Crack. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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duncan | 13 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The flake just before joining the arĂȘte of Curving Crack is now loose. If it breaks off it may target the gearing-up area. It provided the only good protection on this part of the route so making this section slightly more serious. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The flake just before joining the arĂȘte of Curving Crack is now loose. If it breaks off it may target the gearing-up area. It provided the only good protection on this part of the route so making this section slightly more serious. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)