Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A steady first pitch accesses a memorable, exposed traverse on its upper pitch. Start as for The Spider.
1) 4b, 20m. From the ledge at 3m head up the long groove to ledges. Traverse right to a belay below the corner of Scar.
2) 5a, 30m. Make a rising traverse leftwards to reach a short corner on the right side of a block overhang. Move up the corner to gain a ledge above the block overhang. Make an exposed traverse left below a bulge to reach cracks and continue more easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fine climb. The exposed crux on P2 with its blind reach around the corner thwarts many aspirants...
FA. F.Cannings 1965.
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
iainJ | 20 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Start of p2 looks a bit green from the belay ledge but it\'s all actually ok and soon clears. There is a loose block on the ledge as you pull through the right side of the overlap, take care. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Start of p2 looks a bit green from the belay ledge but it's all actually ok and soon clears. There is a loose block on the ledge as you pull through the right side of the overlap, take care. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lundy)