The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.
As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.
Rockfax Description
This fantastic route ranks as one of the best of its grade in the country. The steep lower section gives dynamic climbing on reasonable holds. Once through the lower bulge the stunning upper wall is about as good as it gets. Harder since the loss of a small bush used at the start. © Rockfax
FA. Al Phizacklea 1985.
Very good routes in the UK , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Julian Cooper | 6 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: The second bolt rotates in its hole and needs chopping and replacing. Be sure to stick clip B3 to stay safe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The second bolt rotates in its hole and needs chopping and replacing. Be sure to stick clip B3 to stay safe. |
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Nick Sherring | 19 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: 2nd bolt still loose | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2nd bolt still loose |
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hamer89 | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Second bolt loose, don't use | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second bolt loose, don't use |
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John Kettle | 4 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Second bolt is loose and spins, be warned. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second bolt is loose and spins, be warned. |
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Andy Farnell | 25 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Utterly stunning route of great character and quality. Soild 7b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Utterly stunning route of great character and quality. Soild 7b. |
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Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chapel Head Scar)