Rockfax Description
Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1976.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Gritual , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Before 2025 , Winter 23/24
User | Date | Notes | ||
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WillMancini | 8 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Such a fun climb, soloed ground up as slipped on the start. Really fun slab and the upper section is perfect. Big reach to good jugs that feel victorious. Much more serious route if you’re short, but the description does say that. A friend tested the fall on his attempt and suffered from a few breakages. Lucky he wasn’t higher and handled it like a champ, definitely E5. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Such a fun climb, soloed ground up as slipped on the start. Really fun slab and the upper section is perfect. Big reach to good jugs that feel victorious. Much more serious route if you’re short, but the description does say that. A friend tested the fall on his attempt and suffered from a few breakages. Lucky he wasn’t higher and handled it like a champ, definitely E5. |
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Joemullett24 | 30 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: After my lead, my partner bounce tested the 0.0 cam i'd placed (seemingly well) in the right most placement that more resamples a pocket within the break, this came straight out! think that placement has had a lot of use and is pretty bad now. | ||
Show beta
βeta: After my lead, my partner bounce tested the 0.0 cam i'd placed (seemingly well) in the right most placement that more resamples a pocket within the break, this came straight out! think that placement has had a lot of use and is pretty bad now. |
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north country boy | 17 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out! | ||
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out! |
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Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 16 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy. |
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Julian W | 29 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars! |
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simes303 | Jun, 1995 |
Show βeta
βeta: Onsight, no cheating pads. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Onsight, no cheating pads. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)