The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile and enjoyable climb that is mostly well protected and on good holds. Start on the right-hand side of the big undercut buttress.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner on the right and traverse left to gain the front of the buttress. Two cracks lead to the faultline and a good ledge (large nut belay).
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up for 5m then move right to climb a corner to finish. Finishing up just left of the corner is the cleanest rock. © Rockfax
FA. I.Howell, A.Hartley, A.Rowe 16/Jun/1964.
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Orange Spot Swanage , Boulder Ruckle top six achievable climbs - Single days worth?
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mrkebabdriver | 1 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Wonderful first pitch, although getting off the ground took me a minute. Well protected throughout, with a bold few moves near the top. Second pitch was all about the traverse, but it was also well protected. My first Ruckle experience, and I loved it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful first pitch, although getting off the ground took me a minute. Well protected throughout, with a bold few moves near the top. Second pitch was all about the traverse, but it was also well protected. My first Ruckle experience, and I loved it. |
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Iain Weymouth | 10 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Very good route. P1 is 3 stars, P2 is probably 1 star. Balancy well protected P1 crux. Bomber belay with hexes. P2 is easier with some suspect rock. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very good route. P1 is 3 stars, P2 is probably 1 star. Balancy well protected P1 crux. Bomber belay with hexes. P2 is easier with some suspect rock. |
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Fidget | 12 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was my first route at the Ruckle and I really enjoyed it. I led the first pitch, and was emitting some strange noises when I got cramp bridging the first move! The move off the belay was fairly tough too, we went slightly left onto the face (same as SLW?), not sure if that's correct. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This was my first route at the Ruckle and I really enjoyed it. I led the first pitch, and was emitting some strange noises when I got cramp bridging the first move! The move off the belay was fairly tough too, we went slightly left onto the face (same as SLW?), not sure if that's correct. |
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Ewan | 7 Oct, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not a bad route. The climbing is technically easy and well protected. The second pitch was very loose and dusty....almost worth a little bag symbol...? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not a bad route. The climbing is technically easy and well protected. The second pitch was very loose and dusty....almost worth a little bag symbol...? |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cormorant Ledge)