Rockfax Description
A string of superb and intense pitches make up for the rather wandering line. Start at a thin line of weakness in the wall just right of the low-angled corner groove.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb the wall and thin cracks directly to a tricky exit onto a large belay ledge next to a thorny bush.
2) 4b, 12m. Take a good crack in a corner to a roof at its top and pull around this on the right to another good belay ledge.
3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam, as for Venusburg.
4) 4c, 18m. Move up right to the base of a steep corner and climb this with difficulty to a horizontal break that can be followed rightwards across the wall to a belay on its edge.
4a) Anvil Chorus Direct Finish, HVS 5a. A good variation which follows the crack system that rises from midway across the traverse to the top.
5) 4b, 8m. Move up left to a break and climb the thin crack above to finish. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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dpalmer1961 | 1 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Belay at top of the crack | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belay at top of the crack |
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Salvo1 | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Awesome. Tried leading the 3rd crack/traverse pitch. All was going fine until l took too long placing a cam. One move away from finishing the crack. Pumped & took my 1st ever lead fall. Cam held so a good confidence builder. Rested, tried again but was too knackered. Retreated to belay where Andy Benham completed for me to follow. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Tried leading the 3rd crack/traverse pitch. All was going fine until l took too long placing a cam. One move away from finishing the crack. Pumped & took my 1st ever lead fall. Cam held so a good confidence builder. Rested, tried again but was too knackered. Retreated to belay where Andy Benham completed for me to follow. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Tater-du)