Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing. Wild! © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn 1971.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Pentall 10 May Show βeta
βeta: As of 10th May 2024 there's a Kestrel nesting in the bottom left side of the Oracle chimney. We didn't know till she flew away. We abandoned the climb. Probably best avoided for a couple of months.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As of 10th May 2024 there's a Kestrel nesting in the bottom left side of the Oracle chimney. We didn't know till she flew away. We abandoned the climb. Probably best avoided for a couple of months.
Mike#54 12 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looks harder than it is. Go up the chimney and shuffle outwards on good ledges till you can move round the corner. Spectacular. Did it with a single rope, no problems at all, you just need to place your cams as much on the outside as you dare and extend the slings.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks harder than it is. Go up the chimney and shuffle outwards on good ledges till you can move round the corner. Spectacular. Did it with a single rope, no problems at all, you just need to place your cams as much on the outside as you dare and extend the slings.
Louis Barrass 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ropework is painful, probably VS, up the chimney not the other face as thats basically impossible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ropework is painful, probably VS, up the chimney not the other face as thats basically impossible
Simon Caldwell 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not VS, and possibly not 4b either, but very intimidating and superb situations. For the full VS tick, get your ropes jammed in so just as you swing round the corner, you're suddenly unable to move :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not VS, and possibly not 4b either, but very intimidating and superb situations. For the full VS tick, get your ropes jammed in so just as you swing round the corner, you're suddenly unable to move :-)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 94
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manchester Buttress

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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