Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A direct start isn't much harder. © Rockfax
FA. Andy Bailey 1983.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Will's Whippers
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Fiend | 2 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it. |
||||
Tommy G | 8 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade. |
||||
Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are? |
||||
Daniel Armitage | 15 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s" | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s" |
||||
Jon Greengrass | 10 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: did you fall on them then? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: did you fall on them then? |
||||
goi.ashmore | 10 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs. |
||||
Jon Read | 4 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too. |
||||
Ropeboy | 7 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade. |
||||
salancaster | 18 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though! |
||||
Nige M | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe. |
||||
Tyler | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage Plantation)