Restricted Access
Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to a niche then follow a thin crack to ledges. Move back out left for a reachy exposed finale if required. Some care is needed with the protection as wires in the niche tend to lift out. © Rockfax
FA. Hugh Banner 1960.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , ULMC Classics , Bamford Edge , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford Bucks Challenge, chasing stars.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| PaulJepson | 8 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Don't put cams in the polished slot under the mid-height flake. It flexes and would explode if you fell on it. There is other bomber gear around it and it would ruin the route forever if that went! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't put cams in the polished slot under the mid-height flake. It flexes and would explode if you fell on it. There is other bomber gear around it and it would ruin the route forever if that went! |
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| Moi_taiga | 24 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it! |
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| pattif | 3 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed) | ||
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βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed) |
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| Queen of the Traverse | 7 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe! | ||
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βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe! |
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| Durkules | 24 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently. |
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| LouiseCowie | 8 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved. |
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| Sarah_JB19 | 6 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though | βeta? | |
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βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though |
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| Andy Peak 1 | 13 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top |
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| Paul Tomo | 24 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it. |
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| Dominion | 7 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead... |
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| fizz | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :) |
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| LakesWinter | 26 May, 2005 |
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βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question |
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| Jon Greengrass | 1 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bamford Edge
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Crack and Corner
Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)