Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Low in the grade and harder for the short. The face has hard moves above the roof to the ear. Escape right below the roofs. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1971.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser kid 10 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Crag D.. you must have a decent positive ape index as I’m 6ft.1 with neutral ape index and cannot do what you speak of!!
βeta?
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βeta: Crag D.. you must have a decent positive ape index as I’m 6ft.1 with neutral ape index and cannot do what you speak of!!
Guy Atkinson 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 6a for the short i'm sure.
βeta?
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βeta: 6a for the short i'm sure.
craig d 2 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where is the long reach on this route? I am 5'8" and very easily reached from the left undercut to the flake with my right hand. Felt like E1 5B.
βeta?
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βeta: Where is the long reach on this route? I am 5'8" and very easily reached from the left undercut to the flake with my right hand. Felt like E1 5B.
SteveM 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely reach, when you finally get your feet high enough to hit the flake with all four fingers it all falls into place. Bomber gear.
Show beta
βeta: Lovely reach, when you finally get your feet high enough to hit the flake with all four fingers it all falls into place. Bomber gear.
LankyPaddy 13 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This was first E2, although not desperate the reaches were quite long. The traverse at the end wasn't hard - but it feels tricky on tiring arms. Overall a really good route, bomber gear, good holds and ncie moves
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was first E2, although not desperate the reaches were quite long. The traverse at the end wasn't hard - but it feels tricky on tiring arms. Overall a really good route, bomber gear, good holds and ncie moves
The Pylon King 4 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade (except i guess for midgets!)
βeta?
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βeta: Easy for the grade (except i guess for midgets!)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bamford Edge

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 135
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 136
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Five Finger Exercise

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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